The old rules of wine country are fading fast. The hushed tasting rooms, the scripted notes, the velvet-rope exclusivity. That version still exists in pockets of Napa and beyond, but it is not what is happening on Idaho’s Sunnyslope Wine Trail.

“I like wild ferments, and if I use any oak, it’s a very low toast,” says Will Wetmore, owner and winemaker at Veer Wine Project, as he outlined some of the techniques that give his wines such character. We were standing in his tasting room – a dark, cavernous space that…